Happy New Year!
Still we need to be aware of the virus, but we need to shoot images.
So please both keep safe and shooting.
- My first shooting in 2022
- Comparison 1 : 14mm / 270 seconds’ long exposure
- Comparison 2: 24mm/ Let’s Rock!
- Comparison 3: 14mm/ Under the bridge
- Comparison 4: 14mm/ Rock, Sky and Bridge
- Development in Color
- Finale: 22 minutes long exposure
My first shooting in 2022
I recently got a mint 14-24mm 2.8G, not Z which I already have, but F.
When I got z14-30mm F4s, I sold my precious 14-24mm F2.8g.
After that I got the latest z14-24mm, but still I have been missed that balky heavy lens, which I had been shooting with for a long time.
I realized I really loved that lens.
They say: Don’t throw the lens out with the bathwater
Anyway. I’m so happy for retrieving that precious 14-24mm F2.8G.
If you are OK with a good used one, you can get one around $600. This was so bargain price.
Now I have both 14-24 f2.8, Z and F
That means I have to compare with them in my way: of course with Long Exposure photography.
Most of them reviewed and compared both lenses with midiocar scapes(no offense), and looked into the subtle differences and talked about corner sharpness, or having less flare, blah-blah-blah.
Are they really important?
What is the most important of photography?
Let’s find out which is the best long exposure ultra wide lens,14-24mm for you.
150mm square filter
The biggest challenge for both 14-24mm is using “Filters”
Although, z14-24mm f2.8s has 112mm filter threads, 112 mm filters are pretty expensive and less options to chose in the current market.
In my opinion, you should never buy those bigger circular filters for z14-24mm for long exposure photography. They are not worth to be invested. Again, this is my opinion based on my decade experiences. No offense at all.
Instead you should choose square filters.
100mm square filters for Z14-24S
150mm square filters for 14-24F
All filters are Formatt-Hitech.
Square filters are getting popular these days.
They are useful, but you need to know about their good and bad before you try them. I’ll write about more basic about square filters in future my blogs.
Here is the specific gear list I used this comparison.
Team [ z14-24mm f2.8s]
Camera : Z7
Tripd：Gitzo GT2545T with big foots
Ballhead: Markins Q3(Traveller)
with L plate for Z7
Team [14-24mm F2.8G]
Ballhead: Markins Q10 with L plate for D810
Filter Holder：KANI for Nikkor 14-24mm F2.8G
ND FIlter： Formatt-Hitech 150mm sqaure Firecrest ND Filters:
※From now on, Formatt-Hitech sell 150mm Filter only by special order.
Formatt-Hitech US still have some, and you can get them with astonishing price.
I often visit here near by my home, Yogdogawa-river side for simply enjoying long exposure or having some filter or gear test.
Here is 360 version of the location, taken by myself by z6+z14-30mm, posted to Google. If you like off-major location in Osaka, why don’t you come?
Comparison 1 : 14mm / 270 seconds’ long exposure
Before the long exposure
OK, let’s get started.
It was very cold, cloudy day, which was one of the best condition for hyper long exposure photography.
I like the cold winter because even having 3 long exposure, they won’t have few heat noises.
I set the tripods adjacent to each other for having almost the exact same composition.
I also had two remote shutters for having exact the same long exposure, simultaneously
Comparison 1: Result
Filter: Formatt-Hitech square 100mm Firecrest Ultra ND filter 13stops+2stops：
ISO64, F8, 269秒
Here is the result of the long exposure. I just did with white balance adjustment.
Filter: Formatt-Hitech 角形150mm Firecrest ND Filters 13stops+2stops
: ISO64, F8, 270秒
Here is D810+14-24f2.8g. You can’t tell which is which.
The slight difference of the composition among two was came from the position of the camera.
Plus, I accidentally touched the zoom ring of 14-24 f2.8g, so shot by 15mm.
Comparison 2: 24mm/ Let’s Rock!
270 seconds’ long exposure
I like the combination rocks, water and sky.
The light is getting darker, so I removed 2 stops ND filter, and remained 13 stops only.
Here is before long exposure, shot by Z7.
Filter: Formatt-Hitech 角形100mm Firecrest Ultra NDフィルター 13stops（3.9)
ISO64, F8, 270seconds.
Filter: Formatt-Hitech square 150mm Firecrest ND Filters 13stops（3.9）
ISO64, F8, 270sec.
Here is D810+14-24f2.8g. Can you tell which is which? Again, the slight difference of the composition among two was came from the position of the camera.
Here is the BW version of both images.
As you see below, in Black and White photography, subtle color shift or even vignette are totally not a big issue.
Comparison 3: 14mm/ Under the bridge
It started rain a little. I went to under the bridge, then keep shooting.
Here is the shot by D810 with 14-24f2.8g before long exposure.
Filter: Formatt-Hitech 角形150mm Firecrest ND Filters 13段（3.9）
ISO64, F8, 210秒
Filter: Formatt-Hitech 角形100mm Firecrest Ultra NDフィルター 13段（3.9）
ISO64, F8, 210秒
Which is Sharper?
I don’t shoot hyper long exposure wide open, so both 14-24mm are equally sharp as I shoot at around F8. When you see extremely edge of the image, you will say z14-24 is sharper. But in reality, in real photography, the difference would be going to merely Zero.
In hyper long exposure photography you should pay more attention ND filters and tripod rather than camera and lenses.
“Stability” during long exposure really matters for having shaper images.
Comparison 4: 14mm/ Rock, Sky and Bridge
When I shoot a hyper long exposure with ultra wide lens, Id like to have at least 3 minutes exposure. 180 seconds have well balanced for having smooth sky and smooth surface of the water.
If clouds move very fast, or having very calm tide, you can shorten the exposure time. But for me 3 minutes is my bench mark.
Ayway, next comparison is 190 seconds long exposure.
D810+14-24 (15mm) F2.8G
Filter: Formatt-Hitech sqaure150mm Firecrest ND Filters 13(3.9)stops ISO64, F7.1, 191sec.
Filter: Formatt-Hitech square100mm Firecrest Ultra ND filter 13(3.9)stops: ISO64, F7.1, 191sec.
Peripheral Color Shifts
The image quality is almost the same among two.
However when you can see closely at D810 with 14-24 F2.8G, you will recognize the subtle color shift from center to around corner.
This is called “Peripheral Color Shifts” The effect is mostly due to came from characteristics of ultra wide lens.
The newest z14-24 F2.8s has same phenomena, but it’s much less noticeable than 14-24 f2.8g.
Ken Rcokwell well explains the effect with other Nikkor’ ultra wide lenses.
These color shifts is no problem at all in BW photography, and even in color, you can remove them with white balance adjustment.
Development in Color
I love Black and White photography. Hyper long exposure is really suit monotone. Having said that, I tried color development with some.
As you can see I could remove Peripheral Color Shift almost, and give them some qlarity, subtle dodge and burn.
Finale: 22 minutes long exposure
This was the final battle. Actually I was so got tired, hungry, and it was so cold out there that I wanted to go inside asap. But some idea popped into my mind: how about comparing them with the excessive long exposure: 22 minutes. Why 22? That’s happy new year in 2022!
But it might not be interesting to have the same cut anymore, so I set them opposite direction. like this.
Almost the sun is gone, so let’s get started fast!
22 minutes later
22 minutes later
After RAW development in Color
22 minutes is too long
I know it was too long, it was excessive, I was crazy. Although those crazy thing some time tell me what is right and wrong. And I love challenge after all.
Which is better?
There is no doubt NIKKOR Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S is superb lens.
It was kind a miracle to have the same or even better image than NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED with that’s small, light body.
However is there really necessary to replace legendary, acclaimed NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED to the expensive predecessor?
From my brief experience for using both lens, I’d say Z14-24S is not a replacement for F14-24G. The characteristics both lens are little different. That’s why I retrieve F14-24G, even I have Z14-24S already.
Heavier is better
They say “lighter is better”. But when it comes to hyper long exposure photography, this turns to be the opposite: heavier is better. Of course it depends on the situation: When you are in a calm day, any lighter gears with a travel tripod would be no problem. However the heavier, balky NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G always gives you maximum confidence and stability in any rough, windy day. (You need a steady tripod, of course,)
After all “hyper long exposure photography” heavily, hugely depends on ND filters.
There are so many ND filters in the market.
I often surprised that many use a regular or cheap filter on their expensive lenses.
You have to invest high quality ND filters along with lenses.
If you are die-hard filter guy, and have already invested to 150mm filters, there are no reason to move to the Z14-24mm. Just keep shooting with the trustworthy lens.
Or you also can use those 150mm filters on Z14-24mm f2.8s, but I think the balance goes too bad.
A Fine art is not necessarily to be created by the new gear
Most of us love a newer camera, lens, gear.
Camera makers promote their newest gears, make us believe
newer gears can produce better images.
Better image is not better art
In some area of photography, it might be true.
But in my area of photography, it would not usually happen.
Just keep your 14-24mm, neither F or Z, and keep shooting long exposure with them.
Stay safe, and happy new year 2022.